I’m making progress on all fronts for my two weeks of leave. My plans, to recap:
- Play guitar poorly
- Do leather work
- Drink beer
- Grow beard
Courtesy of my father-in-law, I learned three chords yesterday. (Perhaps more importantly, I learned how to read the chord charts.) I have an open Sam Adams Oktoberfest in front of me right now. The beard is moving slowly through the awkward fuzzy stage. So let’s discuss the leather.
This is a vertical hold holster for my Samsung Dart, an entry level Android phone I bought last March specifically for the Misanthrope Special prepaid phone plan (unlimited data and text, 100 mins per month for $30). The exterior is burgundy oil-tanned leather; the interior is a black pigskin lining leather. It’s held together with antique brass small rivets, which were finally in stock last time I was at Tandy in Tacoma. The button was a random thing that my wife had floating around.
For the lining “lip” on the front, I sewed the back of the lining to the top of the pouch front, and then folded the lining over the stitching and edge and glued it to the inside. This makes for a neat, tight edge. (I’d mentioned this technique in the iPhone pouch post; I learned it from one of Ian Atkinson‘s excellent videos.) [Please don’t blame him for the OTHER things in this work; it’s not his fault I’m only capable of learning one thing at a time.]
You can see here the lip and also the retention, which is just an elastic hair band routed through two slits in the pocket, with a pigskin leather pull tab. This is the main thing I would change; if I do another, I will put a leather mounting loop of some kind on the front or bottom of the pouch–something that can unsnap so I can replace the band as necessary.
For mounting, I used some conventional small belt/holster spring clips. I wish I had some in the same antique brass finish as the rivets, but you can’t have everything. They are mounted pretty high, such that the top of the pouch will hang at or just below the top of the belt (or pocket).
I still need to finish the edges. The manager at the local Tandy Leather offered some suggestions last time I was there; he thinks gum tragacanth will work just fine (as would be used on veg-tanned leather), so I’ll pick some up next time I have some money and see what I can do. The “rough” edge look is okay (it looks better in person than on the pictures, in fact), but I’d like the option to smooth it out–not just on this, but on most of my projects.
I’ll probably do a small notebook cover or something next.
Lessons (Possibly) Learned
- Figure out how you’re going to close the thing before you put the lining in and definitely before you rivet it closed. I (bizarrely, in retrospect) assumed I’d be able to sew a button on or something after the pouch was already closed up.
- On a related note, consider writing down the order of operations. Some things simply can’t be done after other things–not well, anyway. You’d think I would learn, but it hasn’t happened yet, and practical limitations end up driving some decisions that should be aesthetic.
- Use the anvil (or similar hard surface) when doing rivets. I forgot and just had the things directly on the poundo board for the first two I did; if you look at the photos, you should be able to easily guess which two those are.